"Fall in love. Give unconditionally. Be hurt. Not for their looks, their sex appeal, or their money. But for who they are as a person.. It’s hard in a city like Singapore, but try."
"I’m writing a play about the nature of truth, and how difficult it is to convey the truth when everybody is speaking a different language. For example, the word ‘terrorist’ and the word ‘freedom fighter’ are used to refer to the exact same people at the exact same time. With everyone speaking differently, truth is almost impossible to agree upon. Yet believing in the existence of truth is the only thing that keeps us from devolving into tribal warfare. Because without the existence of truth, the person who is most powerful becomes the person who is right."
War veterans tribute to war horses. A really nice gesture.
A friendly reminder that this Friday is the last day to put in an order for the custom run of tobacco Fresco I’m organizing. If you’re unfamiliar with Fresco, you can learn everything there is to know about it here.
Readers who don’t yet have a tailor might be interested to know that No Man Walks Alone will be taking some of this cloth for a project with Sartoria Formosa. Formosa, for those unfamiliar, is one of the more renowned tailoring houses in Naples. The firm’s founder, Mario Formosa, was a tailor who dressed some of Italy’s most famous stars in the mid-20th century, and many say that he cut a better double breasted jacket than Rubinacci at the time.
Cold Summer Weather
The weather looks promising in San Francisco this weekend, with temperatures reaching 76 degrees on Sunday. However, San Francisco’s summer weather is anything but predictable. This photo was taken early last month on a cloudy day with a high of 61.
Jacket - Belstaff | Shirt - Brooks Brothers | Pants - Epaulet New York
I love being horribly straightforward. I love sending reckless text messages (because how reckless can a form of digitized communication be?) and telling people I love them and telling people they are absolutely magical humans and I cannot believe they really exist. I love saying, “Kiss me harder,” and “You’re a good person,” and, “You brighten my day.” I live my life as straight-forward as possible.
Because one day, I might get hit by a bus.
Maybe it’s weird. Maybe it’s scary. Maybe it seems downright impossible to just be—to just let people know you want them, need them, feel like, in this very moment, you will die if you do not see them, hold them, touch them in some way whether its your feet on their thighs on the couch or your tongue in their mouth or your heart in their hands.
But there is nothing more beautiful than being desperate.
And there is nothing more risky than pretending not to care.
We are young and we are human and we are beautiful and we are not as in control as we think we are. We never know who needs us back. We never know the magic that can arise between ourselves and other humans.
We never know when the bus is coming."
"I have a saddest moment, but I haven’t told anyone, not even my parents, closest friends - not even to the man I love. My religion forbids that I disclose my sexuality, and so do my parents. My biggest regret in life has been not being a good Muslim. I don’t pray five times everyday, I am involved in casual sex, and I drink… I am also suffering from a disease which has no cure.. I have AIDS."
Helpline for Action for AIDS:
(65) 6254 0212.
Please share regardless of whether or not you know anyone in such a situation - we’re positive that even the slightest of efforts such as this could make a big difference to someone.
Balance + Shoulder fit
We at B&TAILOR spend most of our time getting the fit of the shoulder and the balance of the jacket right, during fittings (especially at baste and forward fittings).
What I mean by the shoulder fit? The shoulder of the jacket being laid at an angle perpendicular to the ‘overall’ angle of the wearer’s shoulder, and this angle is not 2 dimensional. It also has to account for the wearer’s clavicle shapes and positions but also adjoining flesh and its position and angles in respect to the rest of the upper body. Any bumps or hollows will have to be also accounted for and smoothed out the best they can be.
The balance of the jacket does not simply mean that either end is too short or too long (that is only one of the consequences of the incorrectly balanced jacket). The correct balance is achieved, in a simplistic sense, when a jacket is in perfect balance with the wearer’s stance, perfectly accounting for his or her posture (forward, back or neutral) and the body contours- so that the jacket sits squarely and firmly on the wearer from the collar to the shoulders to the rest, and all the panels of the jacket is in the right angle/position to the body.
The main reason that we do fittings is to achieve the above plus the sleeve pitch (will be discussed on a separate post) right, every time and all the time - one of the main differences to MTM garments that are pre-made.
I have described the both shoulder fit and the balance in a way that I personally think that it would make sense to a lot of people however there are many more aspects of the fit and balance that warrant further discussions (for people who are more interested in such topics).
I am planning to illustrate the above in more depth with actual baste fitting examples in future.